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Welcome to Now You Know, Eric Wilson‘s new weekly column that will help you become a fashion know-it-all in one quick read. Each Wednesday, he’ll take a look at an endearing fashion influence and why it’s relevant right now. We kick off with franklin and marshall hoodies a little lesson on Charles James, the legendary designer being heralded at the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute beginning May 8. Enjoy!
In the history of American fashion, there are few designers who retain as great esteem inside the industry, and yet who fell into such a general state of obscurity, as Charles James. The late, magnificently talented and temperamental couturier, an obsession among curators and collectors for decades, was one of the more complicated figures of mid-century design, revered as a genius of dressmaking techniques by no less than Balenciaga and Christian Dior. James was a coveted designer to clients like Babe Paley (pictured Franklin and Marshall UK above) and Millicent Rogers, though his caustic personality often put him at odds with financial success and contributed to his fading reputation in his later years, up until his death in 1978.